Welcome to the Southern Hemisphere

Wednesday, September 28th

 ALL POLLYWOGS REPORT TO DECK SEVEN!

That was our wakeup call this morning, followed shortly after by
the sounds of a ragtag band dressed in togas marching through the
hallways banging symbols and drums.  Welcome to Neptune Day! 

Up until a week ago Neptune was only a planet to me.  But as our ship approached the equator, there were whispers of  some sort of ritual that involved kissing a fish and jumping in a pool of water that was not the drinking variety.  And then I was asked  if I planned to shave my head.  I don't think so.

As I learned, Neptune Day is not just another activity that the ship plans for the entertainment of our college students.  It's an ancient sea ritual performed when you cross the equator, and from what I can gather,  it was originally intended as a way for sailors to prove their sea worthiness.  OK so some things do change.

Neptune Day is when a pollywog officially becomes a "shellback" (And you thought I wasn't learning anything on this trip).  In our case, we became "Emerald Shellbacks."  That's because we crossed the equator and the prime meridian at the same time.  I'm going to have to add this to my resume.




KING NEPTUNE (aka The Academic Dean)

THE FISH (Held by Business Entrepreneur and Life Learner Craig)

HONORED GUESTS...Desmond & Leah Tutu

  

ITS OFFICIAL...

 

 

MEET THE NEW EMERALD SHELLBACKS

(Do you think there were any second thoughts the next day?)

Ghana

Wednesday, September 22 - Saturday September 25

Early Wednesday morning we arrived in Ghana.  Our port was Takoradi, a city that claims to be the center of the world.  That's because they're the  largest city closest to where the equator and the prime meridian intersect. 

There are very few countries where we don't already have some preconceived notions, but I can honestly say I really didn't know what to expect in Ghana.   We toured the site of the slave dungeons where Africans were held before being transported to the new world, and saw the door of no return through which they passed before embarking.  

Outside the dungeon was a scene that could have been from a movie.  A fishing village filled with wooden boats flying the flags of many countries where fisherman worked at untangling their nets.

We journeyed by dugout canoe--through marshes that reminded me of Kiawah-- to a water village that dates back 500 years.  At the entrance, a sign advised that it was customary to give the tribe leader 7 cedis  (that's the local currency) or a bottle of schnapps.  Schnapps? Does anybody really drink schnapps?   Not for drinking we were told...it serves as a tribute to the village ancestors.

And we also hiked in the rain forest walking across the top of the forest on the narrowest of wooden bridges -- seven of them.  I survived, but I can report  my fear of heights is still intact.

Traveling through the very poor towns and villages of Ghana you see endless  stores that are little more than shanties.  But you can't help but smile at the shop signs.  The spirituality of the people is evident everywhere in the simple names -- 
    Have Faith Enterprises      
    Holy Boy Autos
    Humble Work Furniture
    God is King Tailoring.

And then there was the advertising.  Since billboards are expensive, the local cell phone carriers pay residents for permission to  paint their houses...complete with company logo.  Buildings painted red or yellow were everywhere although our guide told us that these ads were losing favor with the locals.

Many  onboard our ship had the opportunity to  stay in villages, visiting an orphanage, delivering shoes, installing a water purification system.  What impressed me most was that a number of these projects had been initiated by the students themselves.   It was also interesting to learn what Ghanians know about our country.   One student stayed with a woman who had a picture on her wall of a large mansion in California overlooking the Pacific Ocean.  She believed that this was how all Americans lived and wanted the student to autograph the picture so she could tell her friends that someone from the US had stayed with her. 

After four days here what most of us on the MV Explorer  came to realize, is that a visit to Ghana is special not because of these sights,but because of the people.  Whether you traveled by foot or bus, their warmth and hospitality were always evident --  especially the children who never failed to greet you with a smile, a wave and sometimes even  a high five.

I'll leave you with a few more examples of Ghanian "sign" wisdom.....
    No Bribe at Heaven
    Keep Smiling
    No One Knows Tomorrow

And in the words of a Ghanian to one of our professors who was anxiously awaiting a van, "Please sir. Exercise Patience."  
I've got to remember that one when I get home. 

Marrakech & the Oukira Valley

Saturday September 11th - Tuesday September 14th

I'm not sure anything quite prepares you for Marrakech and especially Jemaa El Fna -- the  enormous and chaotic public square, complete with snake charmers, monkey trainers, fortune tellers, vendors of spices and the best fresh squeezed orange juice,  surrounded by the endless narrow, winding streets of souks. At night it turns into one big alfresco dining hall  where you can sit down at one of hundreds of tables, make your selection and have dinner cooked right before you.

Before arriving our group stopped outside the medina to visit gardens created  by the artist Jaques Majorelle  and now funded by a bequest from Yves St Laurent.  It's a tranquil oasis that includes gigantic bamboo, the most amazing cactus plants and water lilies.
And in the midst of all this greenery,  small buildings  of brilliant blue and yellow along with colorful pottery.  No wonder Yves St Laurent loved this place so much  he had his ashes buried here.






Marrakech was incredibly hot, but our guide said it was nothing compared to the 122 degrees of the   previous week.  Still, we somehow managed to see the official sights including the opulent tombs of the 15th century Saadian  rulers where the men and children were buried in separate buildings from the women.  But, it was the souks -- selling everything from clothing and jewelry to pottery and produce--that were the highlight.  When the sun begins to set, that's when the action really starts.

The next morning it was out to the Oukira Valley in  the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.  We visited a small village and  spent time with a local family learning  more about their daily lives.  Among the household residents were a cow and chicken who had their own place within the living quarters.   At the end of our visit, we were given  a demonstration of how the traditional Moroccan mint tea is prepared--you would not believe the amount of sugar they use-- which was served accompanied by bread, jam and the butter they had just made.

I decided to stay another two days in Marrakech and was lucky enough to find the Riyad El Cadi.  It's hard to believe that amidst the chaos of the medina, you could find such tranquility.  Over the next two days, Julia and her staff (she's the the owner) made me as if I were a guest in a private home.   The riyad is actually Julia's family home--her father had been a diplomat in Morocco--and is filled with antique pottery and weavings from Morocco.   Julia, not only arranged for a porter to "pick me up" in  the central square, she also had him escort me to and from dinner at a wonderful French-Moroccan restaurant that  I would have never found on my own.

I closed out my visit with dinner  at La Mamounia  which had been Winston Churchill's favorite hotel.   The food was great and the gardens amazing.  If you're in Marrakech, this should not be missed.  I think I would have liked Winston.

The next day it was back to Casablanca and my new home on the MV Explorer.  But I hope to be able to return someday to explore more  of this land "where the sun sets."  As they say in Morocco, "Inshallah."

Morocco

Thursday September 9 - Friday September 10

We arrive in Morocco WHEN?

After settling in on ship, I learned that, not only would we set our clocks back and gain two hours, we would also gain an additional day.  The captain had decided not to refuel -- apparently it was more cost effective to do this later on in the Canary Islands--and so we would land in Morocco the very next day.

An extra day in port is always welcome...but having just adjusted to dinner at 10, this quick turnaround was a challenge.  (OK so that's not such a bad problem to have.) And then of course, it was the end of Ramadan.    Arriving in Morocco as Ramadan was ending was equivalent to being in New York City on Christmas Day.  Everything closes.
 
I quickly learned that Semester at Sea does a series of programs prior to arrival in a new port...presentations on the country's culture and history, guest lecturers, even a  briefing from the State Department.  This usually takes place over a series of days...in this case we got a crash course in two hours.

That afternoon we toured Casablanca.  Its an industrial city with not much to offer for tourists...that is with the exception of the Hassan II mosque.  What a spectacular building.  Its the world's 3rd largest mosque... built right over the ocean.  Portions of the floor are glass allowing you to see the ocean underneath...there's even a rectractable roof.

 

 

The next day....the end of Ramadan...I took the train to Rabat.  At the station were  Moroccans dressed in their finest, headed  home to celebrate with their families.  On the platform one woman stood out--totally covered in black jalaba and veil--even her face.    Wouldn't you know she and her son sat across from me.  And what was she was carrying?  A  bag from Pizza Hut.  

Arriving in Rabat,  I walked the main street of the medina.  There was a wall at the end where people were passing through an entrance--going to what I assumed was the beach.  At a  table sat a man  selling water --now that's an entrepreneur.    But as I soon discovered,  this was  the entrance to the cemetery.  At the end of Ramadan its customary for families to visit the graves of relatives..  The "water" was rose water they bring to  the gravesite.   Was I ever glad that I hadn't bought a bottle and started drinking.

The remainder of the day was spent touring the Kasbah with guide Abdel Aziz and visiting the tomb of the last king, Hassan V.  There were winding streets with the most beautful colored blue walls, children playing in the  playing in the streets and people embracing one another with good wishes for the holiday.  Aid Mubarek Said.

Cadiz & My New Home: The MV Explorer

September 7-8

 I headed to the port city of Cadiz today where I would hook up with my home for the next 3 months:  the MV Explorer.  As we drove through the industrial port area and the modern part of the city I was sure glad I had opted for a taxi rather than the train--until I saw that the train station was right next to where our ship was docked.  After checking my large suitcase, I went off to see Cadiz.

 

Historians say Cadiz is the oldest town on the Iberian Peninsula.  And while the  old part of the city seemed quite large and overwhelming with its endless narrow winding streets, the city has conveniently developed a color coded system that allows you to  tour the various historic sites.  Just follow the colored line of the tour you want to do --it's painted (discreetly) on the side of the cobblestone streets.

I also ventured down to the newer part of Cadiz to the beautiful ocean beach of Playa Victoria.  This area is filled with hotels and cafes right off the ocean.  I even found nephew Randy's favorite bar from his days studying in Spain.

Its hard to say what I enjoyed most, but I definitely liked this city.  In the market area I found  fruits and vegetables displayed as if for a magazine ad.  Then there's the food:  the tapas,  the restaurant El Faro which  is every bit as good as the reviews claim it to be.  The old city where it seemed everytime you turn a corner  you  run into a square with cafes,  parks, and at least a church or two (this is Spain after all).  And then when the sun starts to set there's also a beautiful  paseo overlooking the ocean.

 I couldn't close my visit here without a note on Spain's concern for the environment and energy conservation--windmills, dual flush toilets and key cards.  My first night in Jerez, there appeared to be no electricity in my room.  When I told the concierge, he pointed to my room key.  There was a card on the key chain--that card gets inserted in a small box in the room and activates the lights.  When you leave the room and take your key, it insures all the lights are off.   Think we could put some of those ideas to work at home.

And now on to the MV Explorer and a "Semester at Sea."  Next destination? Morocco